More than 50 years ago in October 1973, Syria briefly recaptured the Golan Heights from Israel in fierce fighting around the provincial capital city of Quneitra. Israel eventually prevailed, routing the Syrians and occupying most of the strategically important heights.
Syrian war dead still littered the battleground when we got there shortly after the artillery stopped. One uniformed Syrian soldier was sprawled on his back, his army identification and some family photos hanging from a lanyard around his neck. Without disturbing the remains, I looked closer at the picture, the soldier and his children all smiling.
